There is a lot of mystery about building points / turnouts, all you need are a few simple tools and follow a build process. In the next few posts I will show how to build copperclad points, and if the members are interested show you how to build plastic sleepered and chaired turnouts. Hopefully this might encourage others into the delights of track building.
In 00 scale there is no ready to run scale turnouts, British turnouts were built using 12" wide sleepers and most of the ready to run trackwork is based on H0 scale where the widths of the timbers are to thin and the spacing is wrong.
Also by building your own track you can build the turnouts to fit the design and or space available
I build the turnouts on building boards, simply because you can turn it around during the building process. Any flat board will do, I have used off cuts of kitchen/bathroon clip together flooring.
I use Spraymount glue to stick the plan to the building board, then spray the plan so the sleepers stick (temporary)to the plan.
The tools you require is a pencil, wire cutters and file to square up the ends after cutting, simply mark each sleeper length with a pencil, cut it off with the wire cutters and square off both ends with the file. Then place the sleeper on the plan and repeat the process on all the other sleepers.
Once all the sleepers are cut and put in place I find it much easier to start with the V.
I clamp a piece of rail so I can use both hands to file the end, this is quite simple and if you file too much off the solder will fill the gap. Simply place one rail over the plan and solder it on to the sleepers, then do the same with the next rail after making sure it fits closley with the other rail.
Up to now everything has been done by eye, now we need to use 2 roller gauges. Cut the outside stock rail to length, place the rail on the sleepers and hold in place with the gauges against the V and solder in place. Now solder the rail to every 5th or 6th sleeper again by eye, look at it from every angle. If it is out of line just adjust, when happy solder the rest of the rails.
Fitting the other stock rail is much the same process, except you must put a slighy bend in the rail where the switch rail touches it. This is called a 'set'. Look at the second photo right hand side between sleeper 2 and 3.
Also as well as using the gauges at the V end you must use them at the switch end on the 2 sleepers before the switch rail, otherwise just follow the plan as on the other stock rail.
Next to the 1st switch and wing rail, I use the same wooden block and clamp to file these as I used for the V, its just a longer taper and both sides. Offer the rail to the plan and mark the bend and length, cut and bend to shape. Now you must use gauges to keep the rails in gauge, roller gauges for the switch and closure rails and a 1.25mm thick piece of flat metal as a wing rail gauge.
Now do the same with the switch/wing rail.
Last items are the check rails, in 00 gauge you can use the same flat metal gauge as you used for the wing rails. In EM and P4 gauges you need to use a check rail gauge as the standards are finer.
In the next post I will show how to make the isolation cuts and fit the tiebar.
Sorry for the lack of German, but Google translate makes you laugh.
Hope this helps, please ask questions if I have not explained anything fully.
The first photo shows the electrical breaks in the rails and sleepers which has been done with a slitting disc in a mini drill.
There is a break in the rails just before the check rails to isolate the V from the rest of the turnout. On the right hand side of the rail-break the sleepers have been gapped between the switch rails, this electrically seperates each stock-rail.
On the left hand side of the rail-break the sleepers have been gapped between the V and both stock rail.
Tiebar has been fitted between sleepers 3 & 4. Dont forget to gap it.
There we are quite a simple project which only needs a few basic tools and a couple of track gauges.
I build in 00, 00-SF, EM, P4 and 0-16.5. But why not have a go yourself, to start off just get some roller gauges, scrap rail and either buy some sleepers or cut up some PCB into strips. Here is a site with free turnout plans http://www.handlaidtrack.com/Fast-Tracks...plates-s/11.htm
The N gauge society can supply roller gauges and parts to build turnouts, in N gauge the lack of chairs will be far less noticable and size would not be an issue.
Whilst it is in some ways easier to build is smaller gauges, you will need a soldering iron with a small tip.
The Model Railway Club in London, has a layout called Copenhagen Fields, based on the approach of Kings Cross Station. Its a very large layout with hand built track, see photos. They have been building it for the best part of 20 years